good evening. wow, another long day in the hot bali sun. i feel like my face is going to peel off.
it all started again at 5:30 am when we got up and headed to the sandbar. wait, instead of writing and writing, i’ll give you a photo diary…
my sister is back home in hawaii probably worried about the family. and probably wondering what the kids are doing and eating. well sis, take a seat and relax. the boys are doing fine. their getting barreled, their eating good food, and their learning things in life that can’t be taught in a classroom. it’s hands on experience and after this trip is done, i’m sure they will appreciate things a lot more when they get back to hawaii. in fact, i can guarantee that….
remember this girl? i didn’t know her name the first time i met her at keramas but now i do. this is momo-chan. i guessed she was 15 years old and get this, i was right. momo-chan is a good bodyboarder and a cute girl so i’m pretty sure she will accomplish her dreams….
this is another one of chigusa’s girls. nao-chan just became a japanese professional bodyboarder at the young age of 17. i’ll be cheering on these girls as they make their way to the top!!! ganbatte!!!
after shooting seth for years now, i kept and kept on telling him that he has to relax in the barrel. every time i get a good barrel shot of him, he’s making a weird face. so after i showed him the photos at keramas, he was kind of bummed because the photos were good, but the face wasn’t. i told him that no magazine would use it. after he slept on it, he adjusted and fixed the problem. take a close look at this photo. cool and relaxed? yup! so from no on, when seth’s in the barrel, he will look just like his uncle kirby. relaxed and enjoying every second of it. haha….
if it wasn’t for surfing, i would be less 10,000 friends. and if it wasn’t for surfing, i’d probably be in jail. surfing has given me things that money can’t buy. making friends and traveling with family is priceless. so i wanted to thank everybody that has supported my surfing career… mahalo
**last, does anybody know a good dentist in japan? i think i need a root canal because my tooth is killing me. i can’t eat hot things, cold things, or even warm things without a sharp pain. i’ll be back to japan april 1 and will be leaving to our boat trip on april 17th so between those days, i hope to get this fixed. HELP!!!!
