good evening. gosh, if you weren’t at bowls this morning. you blew it. the waves were pretty much going off!! solid 3′ peeling barreling lefts. nobody knew there was a south swell because not too many surfers were out. and the parking lot was empty. check out that unridden peeling left breaking in the background of this photo. and that wasn’t even a set. got in a 2 hour super fun session with naoka. then we passed by diamond head to get a look at the waves….
diamond head looked super fun too. light house only had 5 guys out and it was pretty good. summer surf in the winter season. i’m not complaining. the waves were still coming up in the evening so expect epic town tomorrow….
**and what the heck is this world coming too? 24 hours of tragedy in hawaii. NOWHERE in this world is safe anymore. yesterday, this crazy x-boyfriend chased his girlfriend down with his car on the east side. he smashed his car with his car and when she got out to run, he took out his shotgun and beat her to death with it. somebody tried to help but he got beaten by the gun too. the girl ended up dying on the street in the daytime while helpless people only could watch. they caught the guy but the damage was already done….. and today around noon, this 23 year old guy threw this 2 year old baby off the overpass onto the freeway. the baby died. and what makes it worst is that the baby wasn’t his and nobody knows who’s baby it is yet. gosh, very sad news coming out of hawaii. makes me feel sick. my heart goes out to the families affected by this. i’m lost for words…..
