good evening. gosh, what a long day. it’s 9:15pm and i just got home from the north shore. the waves? shit!!! going off big huge monster pipeline. i pulled up at 6:45am at pipe expecting it to be 4-5′. seen a couple 6′ sets so i was glad i took my 7’0 with me this morning. paddled out and the waves got bigger and bigger…..
check out this photo i took with my cel. phone camera. perfect pipe/backdoor. sick…. as i paddled out, i was just thinking about getting one good one…. then the waves started coming up pretty fast. by 8am, it was 8′. by 10am, it was 10′, and by 3pm, it was 12’+. after i came in, i was watching for a few hours. all i have to say is that wakita is representing japan really good. every season, he’s getting more and more confident, more and more waves, and more and more respect from the locals. it’s pretty impressive…. oh, not to mention, akira shindo got the backdoor wave of the morning. super sick perfect barrel. somebody got the shot and you’ll see it in some mag for sure….
we passed by sunset on the way to the dove house and it was going off there too. they were holding the junior pro contest and the kids were ripping…. gosh, what a great day of big surf in the north shore. all day offshore winds and perfect conditions…. had a great dinner at cholo’s mexican restaurant with photographers nakajima-san, char, kenji, and web designer naoka…. i feel and smell like a freakin burrito… tomorrow will be another long day so better get some sleep. good night….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:Zzz:]
