Priceless and Epic!

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i meet the coolest people everyday. meet Takabayashi-san. a super cool chiba surfer that came to hawaii to surf for the first time. i took him out to bowls and we had super fun. Takabayashi-san started surfing 6 years ago and got hooked. he speaks english really good learned from watching tv and following blogs. after he caught his first wave and rode it for 30 seconds, he paddled back out and said “Epic!” yeah, when surfers use the word epic, it means awesome, unreal, or freaking great! we surfed in the perfect weather with no wind, we ate hawaiian food at kapiolani park, drove around, and had a great time. when i dropped him off at his hotel, he told me “today was priceless.” OMG! you don’t know how happy that made me. for somebody to use a word i use all the time, feel it, and live it.
Takayabashi-san,
Thank you for a cool day.
I was super stoked watching you catch so many long waves.
And I’m glad you liked the Hawaiian Food Plate, especially the poi.
Have a great time in Hawaii with your family.
Enjoy life, keep on surfing, and hope your whole trip is EPIC and PRICELESS!
Aloha

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide