good evening. pulled up to backdoor early this morning again and the waves weren’t as good as i expected. it dropped a lot from yesterday and the wind was making the waves bumpy and junky. but i figured i’m out there so may as well get a session in. ended up surfing for over 3 hours…. it was freezing cold but glad i paddled out and stayed out. usually i would get a couple, come in and grab my camera. but not today. i was waiting too long for a day like today. all i wanted to do was surf….
wanted to thank gordinho for sending me these photos from today. i paddled out at 7am before the sun came out. waited and waited. got a couple good ones but wanted a sick one. so i just kept on waiting and waiting. then it came, a perfect a-frame set right to me. here’s the take off…
no, i’m not making dodo, i wanted to stall into the barrel, that’s why i was dragging my hand. but there was a little section that would have broke on my head so last minute, i decided to go around it….
went to the bottom to set up the bottom turn. i remember seeing this big wall building up. i knew i was going to get barreled but didn’t know what would happen next…
pulled in and rode a high line so i could get speed in the barrel…
i could feel the spit shooting at my back from behind.. it felt pretty dam good….
5 years ago, at this point, i would have jumped off my board because i didn’t think i would make it out of the barrel, and plus, i could see somebody paddling out in front of me…
but i held on instead and closed my eyes… haha…
and when i came out, i was pretty stoked. this is how one wave can make a surfers day….
**the waves weren’t that good at all this morning. in fact, it was shitty and really cloudy. there wasn’t even one photographer on the beach when i paddled out. but who cares. i use to sit on the beach and wait until the sun comes out and the photographers show up. by then, it’s to late. the trick with backdoor is you got to just go out and try. rain or shine, wind or cold, just go. yeah, it’s crowded and there aren’t too many good waves, but if you don’t go out and try, you will never know. i paddle out on the worst days sometimes and get some of the best waves of my life. that’s surfing.. great things can happen when you least expect it. and when it does, nobody can wipe that smile off your face. nobody!!! thanks again gordinho for taking this sequence this morning. i thought nobody got it… now i’m happier than i was when i came out of that barrel….
