Kelly Slater VS. MIck Fanning…

205

good morning. gosh, how cold was yesterday? i came from hot okinawa and when i stepped out of the airplane in tokyo, i felt the chill. it must have been 8 degrees and i only had a t-shirt on. it’s mid april and it’s feeling like winter. now i wonder why so many people in japan get sick. the weather is crazy and when i was walking on the street with my t-shirt last night after dinner, i thought i was going to freeze to death. what’s going on with our world?

had a nice dinner last night with naoka, kenji, matsuo, and tokura-san. we ate sheep and it was so good! baaa baaaa….

i just seen the movie hatchi recently. did you see it? it’s about a dog that use to wait for his owner to come back to the train station everyday after work. then one day, the owner died. but hatchi kept on waiting and waiting everyday for 9 years!!! it’s a really touching story and when i found out it was true, it made me sad. the story took place in tokyo at shibuya station. there is a statue of a dog near a bench right outside of shibuya station. ever since i came to japan, that would be where i would meet people. and all this time, i had no idea what the statue stood for. now i do. gosh, i feel like going over there and petting poor hatchi. what a great movie….
**and last, did you see the final from the ripcurl bells contest in australia? kelly slater was injured and still won it. can he become world champion for 10 times? it’s going to be a wild and crazy year. check out the finals….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide