Surfer/Shaper Relationship…

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good morning. 3 more days and i’m out of here. and 4 more days till i’m on the boat exploring indonesia. i better start packing. have a nice day!!!

i’m starting to miss my nashi champur… all this for $2? yasui ne….

yoron island style…

if you want to be a good surfer, you have to be tuned in with your shaper, and if you want to be a good shaper, you have to be tuned with your surfer. surfer/shaper relationships are really important if you want a magic board that will take you to places you only dream of. want to do an aerial? want to get barreled? if you say yes to both of these questions, stay away from boards made in china, and stay away from boards you can buy at costco. i always stress to beginners that if you create a good relationship with your shaper, you have a much greater chance of getting the right board for you. and if your riding the right board for you, your surfing will improve a lot faster. believe me…
seth and matchi have a great surfer/shaper relationship. seth feels confident with his boards and if you have confidence, you can do what ever you want. matchi works really hard on getting the right boards to the right people. i can see him building a good relationship with his customers and when all the made in china cheap board hype dies, it’s shapers like matchi that will rule the world….
**and last, just threw this video together of isaiah and seth winning the grom contest in bali a few weeks ago. gosh, it feels like years ago…. when i was watching it, i couldn’t stop laughing at myself because i was yelling and yelling. what’s funny is while i was shooting this video, i was telling myself to be quiet for the first time. but i couldn’t because i was too dam happy. my two nephews made me really proud in their level of surfing, and their sportsmanship. that day will have to be in the top 10 of the happiest days of my life. it was never in my wildest dreams to travel the world with my nephews and see them winning such a big contest. somebody slap my face and wake me up!!!

and wanted to thank each one of you who congratulated the kids by emails and by mouth. thanks for all your support!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide