**i really don’t like to talk about localism but i think it’s about time i bring it up again. why? because more and more of my local friends are getting irritated by foreigners paddling around them, or paddling outside of them. i was surfing bowls this past winter and my local friend asked me “who’s that japanese guy with that color wetsuit and that color surfboard and so fouth…..” my friend is a pretty heavy local out there and for him to get upset at a japanese surfer is pretty rare, especially being that his wife is from japan. anyway, he was pissed off because that surfer got in his way and just kept on padding around the lineup like it’s his home break. he was nice enough to ask me who it was before he punched teeth out. yes, it was somebody i knew and i felt really bad. and still do…..
here’s what i think and always think. every surf spot in the world has locals. i’ve surfed some of the heaviest localism spots in the world from africa to japan. most locals are cool and if you go out there and respect them, they will respect you. if you see a local paddling for a wave, don’t paddle for it. if you get in a locals way, say sorry. if you get a local upset, go in. it’s pretty simple. i think surfers around the world are so lucky to surf in hawaii because everybody is pretty much welcomed. anybody can come from any where in the world and surf any spot they want in hawaii. the only way a local will get mad is if you paddle for his wave, drop in on him, or disrespect him. i see people from all different counties come here and do stupid things. then they wonder why they get punched, drowned, their boards broken, their car windows broken, or things thrown at them. hawaii isn’t a heavy localized surf paradise. but if you cross the line, bad things can happen. and that’s in every part of the world. i’ve seen some pretty crazy localism stuff in other countries i’d rather not talk about. but let me tell you, it can get ugly….
so back to the solution. if your at your hometown surf spot, do what ever you want to. but if your in somebody else’s surf spot, respect them and treat them as you would want to be treated in your own spot. it’s that simple. when my local friends come up to me and ask me “what, is that guy your friend?”, i get bummed. yeah, maybe he’s my friend, or maybe he’s not my friend. that’s not the point. i just think that all surf lineups would be fine if the foreign surfers respect the local surfers….
luckily i’m from hawaii and understand what happens when somebody disrespects the locals. i’ve seen it hundreds of times and it would kill me if that happened to one of my friends. but what can i do? i can’t be there all the time right?
here’s my advise to all you traveling surfers. first, respect the locals. and last, smile. a nice smile goes a long way and can sometimes get you out of deep shit!!![:????????$B!r(B:]
