from mentawai

363

hello, just got off the boat from mentawai. awesome trip. score!! big barrels. i wrote a few blogs on the boat but had no internet connection so couldn’t post them. check it out.
hello from the mentawai islands. going to lose my signal so going to make it fast. first, the waves are going off!!! i thought nothing could be better than last year but i was wrong. we’re only on day 4 and i’m ready to go home. surfed out!!! barreled out!!! HT’s was going off!! we pulled up 2 days ago and nobody was out. 4-6′ with huge 8′ sets doubling up and barreling. we scored!!! then today? same thing but cleaner. took over 3000 photos and already have enough to publish in 3 magazines. not to mention a DVD. the weather is perfect, the swell is pumping, and the vibe is awesome. i don’t think anybody on this boat could be any happier..
we’re all having a great time so please don’t worry if your love one is on this boat. we didn’t have an internet signal to now. so here i am typing away while everybody is sleeping. we’re traveling 11 hours tonight to the southern tip of the mentawai’s. we surfed 7 spots already and are going for the record of surfing the most surf spots in a 12 day period.
aah… i’m getting tired. better get to sleep because we have lots to do tomorrow. first, check out this sneak peak….

when you travel, you have to travel with good people. this trip, there are great people. people from all walks of life having a great time in the middle of the ocean. gosh, i wish you were here….

since this is a huge project that will be featured in 3 magazines, i better not reveal too much. this was how HT’s was yesterday and today. this guys name is RedDog and he’s over 6′ so imagine the size of the waves. BIG and BARRELING!!! AND UNCROWDED!!! i shot over a thousand photos in this session, got barreled out of my mind, and broke 2 boards. it’s a tough job but somebody has to do it. wait till you see all the photos and video. it’s going to blow your mind….

if you go on boat trips with us, you will be able to eat fresh sashimi every night. we surf, then we dive for our evening sashimi platter, then we surf again. then as the sun sets, out comes the bintangs and the sashimi. diving is always a team effort and so is preparing the fish. wanted to thank everybody involved in making our evening pupu sessions a success. i can’t wait to see what we catch tomorrow…

this was sashimi platter for day 3. fresh fish and fresh poke. i’ll introduce all the members on this boat trip in an upcoming blog. but for now, just wanted to tell my family and friends around the world “Hello and wish you were here.”
and as for my emails, haven’t been able to check it. get back to you after i return to hawaii. mahalo…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide