i’ve been waking up at 4:30am recently. just been sleeping early, no alcohol, and feeling so fresh. i do some work, i exercise, and when it starts to get lighted, i head to the beach. today was just one of those days i knew somewhere was going to be perfect.
so i eat my power breakfast. today was natto/okura over rice topped with a raw egg. winner!
i head down to diamond head because it’s my indicator of wind and swell direction. new south/west building swell with no winds. it was super crowded and i knew that the north winds were coming soon. so i jumped back into my car, and headed to my super secret spot.
i pull up, the waves were perfect, barreling, and nobody out. my first wave i get barreled and i knew it was going to be a good session. i have no watch and time just flies by. after 20 or so waves, i come in and check the time. it’s 11:30!!! OMG!!! i surfed over 3 hours. i couldn’t have been any happier.
i drive by diamond head on the way home. still fun waves but nothing compared to what i just surfed. the feeling of satisfaction couldn’t have been any better.
the waves are going to be tricky all week long with these weird winds. you just have to know where to go and if you do, you will be surfing your dream, just like me! good night.
hey wendell, i finally got your photo of this monster tako. OMG! enough tako poke for a big party!
and this is amazing. i have 4 gyotaku’s in my house and i stare at them everyday. thanks wendell, let me know when you get another monster tako! shoots!
