good evening. headed out to the north shore with hayato around 9am and when we got there, the waves were getting better. the sun came out and there were some good backdoor barrels. where was everybody???
the waves cleaned up and seemed like it was getting bigger. i surfed for a little while and then went in to grab my camera. shot a couple photos until one of my friends got hurt…. shit, backdoor is dangerous….
kenji doing his job documenting the happenings on the north shore. with the good, comes the bad….
this what happens when you head butt the reef. not good…. i don’t really want to say who this is because he’s back on the north shore resting and probably won’t want a million phone calls in the middle of the night…. he’s got about 20 or so stitches but he’s ok…
check out 3 of 8 shots i took today…
i swear the beaches are empty these days. i was wondering where the heck was everybody? nobody around at one of the most packed and most photographed surf spots in the world…
i finally got a shot of matchi riding a matchi shape. matchi has been here the longest so i was waiting for this day to come….
and here’s the shot of the day. this kid’s name is actor ruben tejada from the movie blue crush. sick wave. who ever tells me that backdoor was shitty today, look at this pit. you missed out…
