Time Zone Dreams…

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good morning. jet lagged? 4 different time zones? 4 different currencies? 4 different countries? 4 pages filled in my new passport? wow, i still can’t believe how time flew right on by. bali and yoron feels like years ago. i put on the news last night to take a peak and turned it off after 10 minutes. tv sucks. i don’t want it and i don’t need it. all i want now is a big boat so i can explore the world through the seven seas. i put the first $500 in a separate account for that dream to come true. i just have $999,500 more to go. haha…

this was bali on our last day of our trip. what a way to end it huh? i wonder if isaiah and seth still remember bali? maybe they can refresh my mind….

when i got to padang airport, i seen this indonesian guy pushing a cart with a surfboard bag. he came out as i walked right past him looking for maoh and rikiya. come to find out, that was rikiya. yeah, rikiya had a fresh haircut he got in bali that he probably paid 50 cents for. he just didn’t look right. so for the first few days of the trip, everybody was teasing him and he finally gave in. hayato started the haircut and everybody got a chance at rikiya’s head. wait till you see the video.. haha… i thought it was going to be a disaster but rikiya actually looked really good after.

on our last day of the trip, the waves started to build again. we had enough of barrels so we went searching for an outer reef wave. we pulled up to this pinnacle in the middle of the ocean and a wave started to break. it looked solid 15′ so i grabbed my 6′ and paddled into one of the biggest waves ever ridden in indonesia. when i took off, the wave got bigger and bigger. id say it was solid 30′? anyway, i made the drop and pulled into a huge tube. everybody cheered from the boat as i got spit out of the tube. i came in, showered, grabbed a bintang and had a big smile on my face…. what a last wave…
then i woke up. haha… i’m still so jet lagged that i’m having the weirdest dreams. but i guess it’s all good….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide