J-Wave: Colors of Hawaii….

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good evening. went out to the north shore at dark this morning. it was the first time this year the waves were junky. i surfed for a couple of hours and thought it would get better but it just got worst and worst. that sucked… but i guess it’s better than the old days when there wasn’t any internet. i use to drive out there a lot and end up not even surfing. i guess that sucked even more. this years been pretty slow for good days but at least, it surfable. try again tomorrow….

the cool thing about driving out early is it’s like driving into the moon. gosh, it was a pretty awesome morning..

this is sachiko-san. she is a DJ for J-Wave 81.3FM in tokyo, japan. i had an interview yesterday and was so freaking nervous. i’m not good at all doing things like that. i remember the first time i went on the radio, i froze. no words came out of my mouth. people probably thought i was a stupid or something. so i was really hesitant this time but sachiko-san made me feel pretty relaxed. so relaxed that i could have talked for hours… haha…. thanks sachiko-san…
***check out Sachiko-san’s Blog by CLICKING HERE….

and last, check out this photo. this is nightfall in usa. the way the sun and moon revolve around the earth is so freaking amazing….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide