good morning. i’m surfing again. small waves but as fun as it gets. i’m glad to be back home so close to the beach. i can drive down to the beach in 10 minutes and then come back home to the mountains right after. a little bit of town and a little bit of country…. have a great day….
i did a photo shoot yesterday for this popular japanese magazine called GOETHE. it was super fun because it was in the ocean. anything in the ocean is fun to me. plus, i got to work with 2 wonderful people i already know. makoto uchino and naoyuki honda are really nice surfer/business guys. to tell you the truth, i have no idea what or who the photo shoot was for or about, but it doesn’t matter. i just like working for nice people. it’s probably going to come out sometime soon so stay tuned. check @ http://www.gentosha.co.jp/goethe/ for details….
this is naoyuki honda. i met him at a party earlier this year and have seen him all around the place. i heard he’s the boss of a successful company and i also found out that he’s a triathlete. run? bike? swim? wow! in japanese, we say “Kakkoii” or in english “Cool”…..
even though the waves were small yesterday, it seemed that everybody was having a good time. when i was younger, i use to be upset when the waves were small. but now, i appreciate even the swells that don’t even break. i guess living in japan did that to me. and i’m thankful for that…
i don’t really want to say where this spot is because even on the smallest days, it breaks pretty dam good. when i was in high school, we use to sleep in the car in the parking lot just to surf here early in the morning. back then, i only could get the leftovers. and still to this day, i only can get the left overs. i just sit in the inside reef and wait for the ones that break and peel right off the knee high reef. little do most people know, those are the best ones. this girl knew where to wait…
