hey, did you surf today? OMG! the waves were unreal! north/south/west shores all perfect. perfect for every level from beginner to expert. today has to be one of the best surfing days in the past 5 years. pipe going off, bowls going off, diamond head going off, and west side going off. i’m surfed out, sunburnt, and am totally satisfied. hey, i’m a busy guy, but a happy busy guy. as i was driving home this afternoon from the beach, i was thinking to myself “i wonder if there is anybody else in the world that has such a dream life like mine?” i couldn’t be a better place in my life right now. yahoo!
i surfed this morning with Shimazaki-san. she’s been to hawaii 20 times and knows a lot of things and places i don’t even know about. it was her first time surfing and after all the fun, i’m sure it’s not her last. thank you for the wonderful morning!
then i paddled back out to surf this afternoon. the waves were just perfect. overhead, offshore, sunny, uncrowded, and paradise. this guy walking on the wall isn’t too happy with his surfboard in 2 pieces.
want to thank Toda-san for sending me this photo of my favorite mountain in the whole world, Mt. Fuji!
after a week, my finger is still so sore and throbbing. when i push people into waves, sometimes the leash wraps around my finger and yanks it. do you know how sore that is? OMG! i scream like a baby inside. i hope it heals soon.
anyway, super burnt out. the waves are going to be good for the next 5 days! perfect waves, perfect wind, perfect weather, and perfect everything. i still can’t believe i’m going to japan in a few days! i better get ready! see you all soon!
