good morning. 6 am and i see a little south swell in town. bowls and the park have some nice 2′ sets. it’s looking really clean now. 30 guys already out at ala moana park, 5 at kaisers, 6 at rockpiles, and 9 at bowls. umm… doko iko? means “where should i go?” i’ve surfed this pretty good wave the past 2 days. chest high and barreling. it was only carissa moore and myself yesterday at this nice peak and i witnessed some amazing surfing. she was practicing her 360 air reverse and making all of them. she told me she’s graduating from punahou next week, then heading to peru for the next WCT womens contest. mark these words: “CARISSA MOORE IS GOING TO BE WORLD CHAMPION REALLY SOON!” anyway, better get going. have a nice day!!!
if you have ever met seth moniz, you will fall in love with this kid. not his eyes, not his surfing, but his personality. seth is one of the most kind and caring kid out there. he was like that ever since he was born. he’d always see if everybody is ok, share things, and play with the kids that nobody wanted to play with. seth gets along with everybody and everybody likes him. nobody has anything bad to say about him and if they do, i’ll beat them up. haha…
kazuma fell asleep in the car on the way back from a long surf in bali. when i turned around, seth just sat there smiling with kazuma leaning on him. i thought it was kind of cute so i got out my camera, told seth to smile, and embarrassed the heck out of him. haha… i just want seth to know that taking care of others is nothing to be embarrassed about. i hope seth stays this “LOVABLE” forever….
by the way, check out the bricks on seth’s stomach. 6 pack?
