Pro Bodyboarder Mitan….

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coming back to hawaii and doing all the things i’ve been doing finally caught up to me. my body pretty is exhausted and needs a break. a full day of free diving is like swimming 3 open water swim races. yeah, i felt 3x more tired than i was when i finished the finish line of the last race. i’m taking a break from diving because i’ve been so excited on surfing again. but i know when i get a call from a buddy for a dive, i’m not going to let him down. haha…

on the way out of haleiwa harbor, we seen this cool baby turtle hanging out near the pier. i wanted to take him home….

like i said before, “uku’s” aren’t easy to catch. you can’t have beginners luck and go out and spear one. it took me over 10 years of diving to even get close to one. but once you spear one, you will learn how to do it. here’s some advice: dive deep, don’t look it in the eye, be patient, be patient, and be patient. when the fish starts wondering why the heck your holding your breath for so dam long with that funny face of yours, he will come in and take a better look at you. the keep holding your breath, you keep the funny face, and when he turns to the side, BAM!! hit him in the brain so you don’t have to fight the fish back up from the deep. check out my shot in the head. this fish had no chance….

last, the girl on the bottom row second from the right is Misako Nishiyama or “Mitan.” I’ve known Mitan for a long time but never been formally introduced. i’ve seen her all around shikoku for years and i’ve only known her as my friend “Chigusa’s Imoto” which means “Chigusa’s Younger Sister.” Mitan is quiet and usually keeps to herself. she’s taken after her older sister as she is fearless in big waves and pretty much goes for it. sponsored by murasaki, i’m sure you’ll see her around more and more…
Hello Mitan,
how was your fight back to japan? hope you got back safely. it’s weird how i’ve known you for so long but didn’t really know you. it was nice to finally call you by your name instead of “chigusa’s imoto.” i was really impressed that morning at HT’s when i seen you charging those big sets. keep on smiling and keep on charging waves around this world. we still have some unfinished business with backgammon so be prepared. haha… take care and see you in shikoku later this year. also, tell tabo i said hello.
take care,
Kirby

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide