i think every surfer on the island is freaking on how good the waves have been. some of the top professional surfers who came in december and january to the north shore said it was the worst winter season ever. well, i got some bad news for those guys, and for all the photographers who left early. north shore finally awoke! yeah, it’s already april but none of the local boys are complaining. pipeline/backdoor has seen the best waves ever this past week. perfect swell direction, perfect winds, and perfect weather.
2nd reef pipe at 12′ this evening. and guess what? there is another swell rolling our way.
the weather pattern in the world is weird. this has to be the best april on the north shore in the history of surfing. and the month just started. OMG! lucky you live in hawaii.
check out this photo i took yesterday when i was surfing with my friends. i was on the side yelling “stand up! look forward! bend your knees!” imagine there is a girl right on the bottom of where this board is coming down. it was a super dangerous situation but luckily nobody got hurt.
the waves continue in hawaii as my journey goes as planned. tomorrow, hopefully i will get on a flight leaving this beautiful paradise island and heading to another one very far away. my life on the road continues…
