Underground Pro Bodyboarder Yumi-chan….

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good morning. 6 am monday morning. wow, what a great weekend it was. kind of tired but still got to keep on going and going. i see a little south swell in town. not too big, not too small. perfect for bowls. see you out there!! have a great day!!!!!

i know this secret beach on the east side that is loaded with turtles. i’ll only take you there if your a good friend of mine. on any given day, i can go there and nobody would be around for miles. it’s only you and the turtles. yeah, walking on the beach, you could count 50 or more in an hour or so. you can feed them, you can pet them, or you can ride them. a few days ago, i took my underwater camera to show you what i’m talking about. here’s 5 friendly turtles swimming in this photo. i made my friends swear to me not to tell anybody where this spot is. why? because i found it a 20 years ago and have been going there ever since. if the day comes where i see tour busses pulling up to this pristine private white sand beach, i will make the few friends i took there take a lie detector test and if they fail, i’ll take them to another beach down the road were 50 sharks awaits them in the shallow water…

the girl on the bottom row in the middle is Yumi Toda. yumi-chan is maoh’s wife and is pretty hard core underground. why? because until a couple years ago, i haven’t seen her once in a magazine or even heard of her. then last winter at velzyland, i seen her take off on a huge double up set and pull into one of the biggest and thickest barrels i’ve ever seen out there. i was tripping out as i shot the 32 photo sequence. yumi-chan rides for Dove Wetsuits and is one of the key players to make this trip happen. she got the other bodyboard girls to come and join the fun. i say underground because for those of you who don’t know yumi-chan, you will now. stay tuned…
Dear Yumi-chan,
thanks so much for helping making this dream trip a reality. i was really happy to see you charging hard and organizing the girls together for our little photo shoots in mentawai. i wish you the best of luck in the story your writing for flipper. sorry i haven’t sent you the photos yet. i’ve been freakin so busy since i got back. diving and stuff… haha… i’ll get some images to you soon. OH!! sorry for getting mad at you when you tried to write the marker pen on my face while i was sleeping. i get pissed at anybody that bothers the little precious sleep i get so don’t take it personal. i looked and acted pissed off but i wasn’t. well, maybe i was. haha.. if you were a guy, i would have put a dead fish in your bed. haha.. just joking… anyway, thanks again and hope to travel with you and maoh more often. see you guys in japan!!!
Kirby

*CLICK HERE FOR YUMI TODA’S BLOG….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide