Old School Local Motion….

185

good morning. 6 am and the waves are looking pretty good. head high sets in town with clean perfect conditions. been surfing bowls but feel like surfing a different wave today. umm…. everywhere is crowded and it’s looking like summer is right around the corner. get ready for another sunny sunburn day. see you in the water!!

wanted to thank tokura-san, kushimoto-san, mie-san, shiratani-san, gentaro, and naoka for a wonderful thai dinner last night. great time, great food, and great laughs….

we’re working on Go-Naminori magazine vol. 3 and i’m getting pretty excited. got some great things coming out!! stay tuned. this photo is from vol. 2 at a spot in ibaragi. kenji sahara shot this amazing photo. yes, this is japan!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR GO-NAMINORI WEB MAGAZINE VOLUME 1 AND 2….


the girl on the bottom row second to the left is takami-san. i’ve known takami-san pretty much since the time i went to japan. she was sponsored by local motion and so was i. takami-san use to surf the women’s jpsa tour, then became a jpsa judge, then her and toda-san opened a hula hawaii store in fuji. she’s really smart, really funny, and really happy. always nice to everybody and when ever i go to fuji, she and toda-san take care of me like i’m their younger brother. it feels good to have such caring people around me…

takami-san,
just wanted to thank you for helping making this trip happen, as well as last years. your very organized, very trustful, and very responsible. if it wasn’t for your help, i couldn’t have done it. so wanted to thank you a lot for that. also, thank you for letting me borrow your car in japan, thank you for letting me stay at your house in japan, and thank you for being so nice to me. oh, i’m also glad that you didn’t slam your finger in the door on the boat again and break it. one more year of suffering? no way right. i guess i’ll see you here in hawaii in 2 weeks? let’s go surf and have fun!!!
see you soon,
kirby

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide