Earthquake Day

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i got up this morning at 5:15 and went to brush my teeth. then things started shaking and the whole house was moving back and forth. i knew it was a big earthquake and was worried of a big tsunami coming. yeah, i was right near the beach and that was on my mind as i jumped into the shower after. now that i think about it, i should have checked the news before i took a shower? but 6.3 is pretty dam big.
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28 people got hurt. luckily nobody died.
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we jumped on the ferry and headed to shikoku. first stop was the TSSC Showroom. the coolest surf shop with my room right upstairs. and again, right on the beach. i hope there isn’t any earthquake again tonight.
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went to take a walk on the beach to look for some shells.
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found some nice ones. shells of japan!
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then it was so dam cold that we made a fire. it warmed us up as we sat on the beach. i’m hoping the waves come up tomorrow, and i’m hoping it gets warmer.
see you all at the TSSC Users Cup tomorrow morning at 5:30am. everybody do your best!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide