good morning. 4 am and guess what? i’m going dawn patrol. why? because sometimes i like to ride a wave into a sunrise. where? never mind. how, jump into my car, put on my 2mm long sleeve top, and surf in the dark. when? right now. have a nice day!!!
when my friends come to hawaii, i set them up at the best place in town. the ilikai hotel is right in front of the action. ala moana bowls action. this is the view and waking up to this makes you want to grab your board and get out there. the waves have been good all week and if you paddle out at the right time, you can score one of the most crowded spot in the world, uncrowded. check this out! 3 guys? are you kidding me? we paddled out right after this…
this is big john. heavy bowls local. if i were you, i would stay out of his way…
when i go to shoot out in town, these are the kind of shots i’m looking for. THIS IS HAWAII…
ok all you kelia fans. i’ve been hearing rumors that kelia is going to japan this summer!!! well, it might be true and might not be true. it’s in the making now and if everything goes as planned, we’ll be touring japan in early august. i’m trying to make some kind of event in shonan or tokyo. any ideas?? kelia came over yesterday and she’s pretty excited!! so am i…. anyway, if she goes to japan, you’ll hear it first from me. stay tuned….
