good morning. 6:15 am and the new south swell is here. seen some nice head high sets at bowls. already 25 guys out and the park looks pretty crowded too. i’d say 100 guys easy. it’s kind of windy but the waves still look good. today i was going to take a break from surfing but after seeing some nice sets, i might have to grab a few. maybe see you out there, maybe not. have a nice day!!!
from knee high to double overhead, bowls has waves for everybody. and that’s why everybody surfs there. when naoka and i paddled out at 5:30 am yesterday morning, there were 20 guys out already. the good thing about it is the morning crowd is much more mellow then the afternoon crowd. i guess the cool sunrise mellows people out, where as the hot scorching sun brings out the stress in the afternoon. everybody, let’s surf happy!!!
want to congratulate kyle nakamoto for spearing this big ono “sawara” the other day. gosh, i wish i was with you…. save one for me. i think i’m ready to try again…
how cool is this photo? check out that water spout off Maroubra beach in Sydney, Australia….
**every country has it’s own culture and i respect that. but there are things that blow my mind. take for example…
that little girl in the photo is 11 years old. her name is Krishna and just got married to 13 year old Kishan. this took place in the Indian state of Rajasthan. unacceptable in most countries but not there. if you oppose that kind of marriages, keep your kids away from that country….
