good morning. i’ve been trying to get something for the past 10 years. i got it before, but not as like i want it. i’m not satisfied and will never be until i get it. that’s why i’m leaving at 4:45 am this morning. i hope i can get it. wish me luck!!
from early morning yesterday, the cops, helicopter and dogs were lined up down my street. i heard some bad guys broke into a house and held the people inside hostage. then they ran into the mountains. hawaii is getting crazy!!!
i went to test my new board out at bowls yesterday evening. i pulled up and seen only 8 guys out, then i looked over at rockpiles and seen only 2. so i paddled out to rockpiles and caught 10 waves in 40 minutes. my new board works good, i felt good, so i went in…
the whole time i was surfing, there was this huge rainbow in the blue sky. it was pretty dam cool…
my friend tat’s is a great chef. last night, he made for me some tataki. i loved it!!! i felt like i was in a authentic japanese restaurant. thanks tat’s….
and last, check out some japanese culture: Mochi Tossing Fesitval in Wakayama???? what??? it was cold, it was exciting, and it was an experience i will never forget. and i don’t think seth will too….
