wow, the waves were super fun today. paddled out to bowls in the morning and caught a few good waves. then came home, took a nap, and went surfing again this afternoon. it was a beautiful day here in hawaii!
i checked diamond head this afternoon and it was perfect! i bet the morning was even better. is summer here?
then afternoon surfed bowls with Kaori-san and Emi-san. it was their first time to hawaii, and first time surfing. i had so much fun with these 2 girls. laughing in the water, while eating acai bowl, and watching them drink their awa for the first time. 2 super cool osaka girls! Kaori-san looks exactly like one of my friends in Tokyo. i have to introduce them someday.
my fisheye lens always captures the moment. the moment of 3 happy people talking story. thanks for the wonderful afternoon girls! hope to see you again.
then i went to diamond head late this evening to check out the waves. lighthouse was probably the best spot on the island! i’m either going there or to the north shore tomorrow. which ever is better, i’ll be there!
on my last day in tokyo, i took the car driving around and figuring out the crazy roads. i might have got lost a few times but when i seen this ramen shop, i knew exactly where i was. i pulled over, ate a fast ramen, and was a very happy man.
i think this has to be the best in tokyo. and every time i’m in tokyo, i’m going there for sure!
anyway, been sleeping so much. eating healthy, no alcohol, exercising, and surfing. can’t beat that combination. my body already got back to where i want it to be. healthy and happy! see you at the best surf spot tomorrow morning. good night and sweet dreams!
