good evening. surfed 2 rounds at 5 hours. i’m so sunburnt! the water is warm now, and the weather was perfect so no wetsuit all day. yeah! i can feel summer coming.
it felt weird leaving to the north shore early in the morning. usually it’s dark at 6am in the winter, but now the sun is already up.
surfed rocky point in the morning. the waves were super good. good rights, good lefts, and good crowd. as i was driving home, i was looking out the window thinking “what a beautiful place we live!”
i think this will be my last north shore session of the year. i’m going to focus on enjoying the waves in town this summer with my friends.
came back to town and surfed 3 hours straight with Seki-san.
surfing was super fun! we both longboarded rockpiles and caught every single wave. i kind of felt sorry for the other surfers out there. oh well.
on the drive back, i asked Seki-san how he started surfing. he told me that his friend introduced him to surfing 10 years ago. since then, his life has changed. he use to like and drive really nice cars, he use to spend money even thought he didn’t have that much. since he started surfing, nice cars and other materialistic things didn’t matter any more. all that mattered was a surfboard and a wetsuit. since he started surfing, he started to get amazed by nature. the changing of the seasons were beautiful. since he started surfing, he hardly gets sick. his immune system got stronger. since he started surfing, he made so many good friends. friends with big hearts. since he started surfing, he got muscles. he went from a skinny body and built muscles. and since he started surfing, his life has changed for the better.
hearing that made me so happy! i am a surfer so i could totally connect to what he was saying. once you start surfing, your life will just get better and better. your surfboard becomes more important than your car. money isn’t as important as it was. nature is beautiful. you hardly get sick. you make lifetime friends. your body gets stronger and looks better. today was a happy day for me because of Seki-san’s amazing story. these are the kinds of stories i love to hear. so for all you surfers out there that agree to what i’m talking about, CHEERS! keep on surfing!
