My Surfer HERO….

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good evening. wow, i’m burnt out!!! was in the sun all day long!! tired and thristy!!! give me some water and let me go to sleep…. have a great evening…

it was in 1992 when i first met kitamura-san. he worked for minami sports/local motion so he was one of the guys who took care of me. i remember catching the train to motomachi in yokahama to pick up clothes from the local motion store over there. kitamura-san use to always take care of me. then in 1996 or so, i saw kitamura-san on a flight back from taiwan. back then, not too many people knew about surfing in taiwan. i went to investigate, and kitamura-san went to surf. since then, i haven’t seen him…… until last night. when i first seen him, he looked the same way as he did 14 years ago. it’s so funny how some people just don’t change. we had a great dinner. thank you kitamura-san and yu-san for the omiyage. i can’t wait to eat it!!!

i’m going to cook some hot rice right now!!!! itadakimasu!!!!
**remember when the mainland states were caught giving away hawaii one-way tickets to the homeless? well, it’s payback time!!! the hawaii government has decided to give the homeless in hawaii a one-way ticket back to their home. the government says “it’s to reunite their families together.” are you kidding? so we as taxpayers are paying for airlines tickets. and how much you wanna bet the mainland states will buy them one-way tickets back to hawaii? who’s making out on all of this? the homeless are. they are flying for free!!! i wouldn’t be surprised if they get business class… there’s got to be a better solution…..


last, 31 year old local surfer jermy crandall from north carolina is my hero. last week, he seen a father and son struggling in strong currents. what does he do? he gives them his surfboard. the father and son survived but jeremy drowned. jeremy leaves behind a fiance and two young children. this guys my hero….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide