Hawaii's for Everyone!!!

216


i was asked by Surfer Girls Magazine to take a portrait photo of a girl named Saki Uchida. so yesterday afternoon, i called her and asked her to meet me at magic island. we pulled up and decided to change spots. so i asked her to meet me at kewalo’s. “kewalo’s?” saki-chan didn’t know where it was. eeh? after surfing and living here in hawaii for 2 years, she really didn’t know where it was and how to get there. i told her to follow me…

we pulled up, i showed her where to park, which is not in the local parking side. she got out of her car to check the waves and i said, “grab your board and go surf.” she looked nervous as heck but it’s ok. i would be nervous too. haha.. anyway, as we were walking to the point, carissa moore took off and surfed a wave like a world champion. i asked saki-chan if she knew who carissa moore was. she said “of course” and looked pretty surprised to see her out there. then carissa paddled in so i introduced her, carissa gave saki-chan a friendly hawaiian kiss on the cheek, and saki-can looked pretty happy. i had to leave so saki-chan went surfing. i explained to her that even if you can’t catch a wave, go out for the experience. and an experience i bet it was.
when i got home later in the evening, i got a text saying “kewalo’s was fun. thank you for letting me surf there.”
you know something? i’m fascinated on how polite japanese people are. they are so thankful and are always saying thank you for everything. but i won’t accept “thank you for letting me surf there.” hey saki-chan, this is hawaii. you can surf anywhere you want. you don’t have to say thank you because the ocean is for everyone to enjoy. i had fun taking your portrait photo today. i’m happy for you that your going to be in the next Surfer Girls Magazine. and i’m happier that you got to surf some where else besides diamond head. here’s my advise from now on, “go surf anywhere and everywhere. experience different waves and conditions. smile and say hi to everybody. make friends. and remember that the ocean here in hawaii is for everybody, no matter where your from. see you at kewalo’s….”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide