good morning. 6:15 and guess what? new south swell!! today is the biggest day in a long time. it’s only 2′ but i’m excited! there are hundreds of hungry surfers in the water everywhere now. in 30 minutes, there will be another hungry surfer, me. there is a big parade going on from 9am this morning so if you don’t get to the beach by then, forget it. also, a WQS contest starting monday at bowls. all the hawaiians will be entering that one. should be good with this new swell. anyway, i better get going. have a nice weekend….
meet the doctors. sato-san and sato-san. two brother doctors from kagawa, shikoku that surf. we had a really fun day together trading stories. the funniest one was….
the younger of the sato brothers is on the right. he was surfing 15 years ago at uchizuma beach. he was sitting on his board and accidently fell off as it flew in the air. then this angry surfer paddled up to him and said “hey, watch out! your board could have poked my friend in the eye!”
that angry guy was Matchi….. hahaha… we were laughing all night at that story….
i miss hanging out at sandy’s. during my younger days, we use to hang out there every single day. surf, barbecue, body surf, barbecue, make trouble, and barbecue, and make trouble again. there were no cel phones, no computers, and no technology. it was just us kids having a good time. the sad thing is that those days will never be the same. i see kids these days hanging out with their friends while hanging on to their cel phones like it’s their girlfriends….
i have 1,245 more photos i want to show you from yesterday. of course this is far from the best. one a day for the next 4 years?
we are probably going to have 3 days of free surf time in japan when kelia is there. can you all please give me a surf report as time nears because i told kelia that we’re going where ever the best waves are. i’ve been doing that for the past 18 years and i want to share with her my lifestyle. and also want her to understand why i fell in love with japan. i hope she falls in love with japan too so we can surf good waves and eat good food all over the place….[:?????$B!x(B???:]
