good sunday morning. 4 am and today is going to be another productive day. no, i’m not surfing. no, i’m not touching my computer. and no, i’m not answering any phone calls. today, i’m going to do something really spiritual. something that helps my surfing, something that helps my work, and something that helps me be nice to people. if i didn’t do it, i’d surf shitty, i couldn’t work, and i’d be an asshole.
I’M GOING DIVING!!!! YEAH!!!
when i was at sandy beach the other day, a truck pulled up early in the morning with a paddle board on the racks. it was keoni watson. keoni and i go way back. we use to surf contests back in the 80’s. keoni is one of the nicest guys you will ever meet. it was good to see him still loving the ocean….
great surfer, great paddler, great guy, and great waterman. and for those of you who don’t know keoni, he’s a big player in Billabong Hawaii, and Vertra Suncare. also a big wave surfer. but most of all, just a pure happy nice guy….
it was the first time i seen a paddle board up close. i bet these things are expensive. i wonder how much it costs for one? look how shinny the bottom is. i bet that thing is fast! hey keoni, i like try?
i wonder if he paddled to molokai? as i was driving home, i was wondering how i could test out a paddleboard. when i saw keoni jump in the water and paddle out past the lineup in seconds, i got a little excited. oh no, i better stop dreaming before you see me with one tomorrow. haha.. but really, if anyone has one i can try out, please let me know….
p.s. aren’t these photos cool? here is a friend of mine i knew for 25 years. after a quarter of a century, this is the first photo i have of keoni. i’m going to keep it forever because this is the happy face keoni i know. a guy that’s always smiling….
