good morning. 6 am and guess what? new south swell!!! i seen some head high sets breaking at bowls. 20 guys out already as they will probably finish up the WQS out there today. strong trade winds already. i surfed a spot yesterday with only one other guy out. probably going out there again today. have a nice day!!!
you probably heard of explorer surfer timmy turner and photographer dustin humphrey. these 2 guys go deep into countries around the world and look for waves where you think wouldn’t exist. pretty hard core exploring risking terrorists, sickness, malaria, starvation, disease, and many other crazy things. they eat noodle soup everyday, they sleep in their board bags, and they surf. the whole time, documenting it on film….
it was a hot morning in april of 2004 when our boat pulls up to a really secret spot in north sumatra. john callahan has been scoping out this point from the charts and told me that there should be a good right hander. after a year of planning, we pull up to this mysterious island, one of the thousands in indonesia. we anchor our boat and look at the waves. off in the jungle, i see a guy with white hair popping up and down. he was trying to hide from us but at the same time, wondering what the hell we were doing there. anyway, he disappeared into the jungle. later that night, we were anchored and just finishing up dinner when this small wooden canoe paddled up to our boat. in it was timmy turner and dustin humphrey. they couldn’t resist going without bottled water and cold bintangs for 2 weeks so they came to ask us for some. of course, we gave them and started talking story. they were in the middle of filming a big movie called “Second Thoughts” which was about timmy turner exploring places never been explored before. they were shocked to see us there. i knew that we were blowing the deal for them but after one year of planning, thousands of dollars, and days on airplanes, i wasn’t going anywhere. we ended up staying and surfing together the whole week. i bet you won’t see that part in the movie? haha…
but the cool thing about it was timmy and dustin were such nice guys. really soft spoken, really mellow, and really cool surfers….
this is the surf spot in north sumatra where nobody was supposed to know about. i was getting barreled while timmy turner was paddling over the wave. he must have been thinking to himself, “i hate these guys!” haha… thanks for the shot callahan….
