Welcome back Winter!

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omg, today was forecasted to be a super sunny beautiful day. BUT, when i woke up, it was storming! raining so hard. then it continued all day long. where did this storm come from? it felt like winter!
so i check the waves at 7am. junky. but i decided to go surf anyway. i paddle out at 9:30 and the rain stops, and the wind stops too. the conditions became perfect!!! we scored perfect waves for 45 minutes with nobody out! then the storm came back and so did the wind. what great timing!
Screen shot 2013-05-06 at 2.03.04 PM
look at bowls this evening. strong south/west winds and storming!
Screen shot 2013-05-06 at 2.03.01 PM
north shore was storming too! i was planning to dive on monday and tuesday. i cancelled monday, but i’m going for sure on tuesday. i hope the water isn’t too dirty.
IMG_1222
and last, i found my art sketch book from ART 101 from my freshman year in college. that was from 24 years ago. i don’t remember drawing this sketch of myself. did i really do it? and did i really look like that? gosh, i look like a murderer from a police suspect sketch. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide