i wake up early as usual, check the waves, check the wind, and leave my house. i was pretty confident that diamond head was going to be the best spot today. i get there, eeh? the waves were so small, the direction was weird, it was crowded, and the wind made it a little bumpy. then i think “oh, i know where to go!!!” so i drive past small bowls and when i arrive in the parking lot at kewalo’s, i couldn’t believe what i saw!
totally perfect shoulder high waves with only 2 guys out. and the 2 guys were my local friends. the rights and lefts were long and perfect!!! i ended up surfing for a long time catching so many good waves. we all couldn’t believe how good and uncrowded it was. score baby! the cool thing about kewalo’s is it’s a local only spot. you won’t find tourists out there, and you won’t find surf schools either. it’s just grass roots surfers enjoying the most localized spot on the south shore. i’ve been surfing there since i was 14 years old and always like to go surf there to put me back to reality. kewalo’s is part of my surfing roots.
then i had some things to do back at diamond head. it was such a beautiful day!
so many japanese go to Yu-chan’s to eat the cold noodles. at $9.99, it’s pretty dam good!
taking apart spearguns and putting it back together has always been my hobby. as i’m putting it together, i’m dreaming of my next dive with it. can’t wait to use it! these past few days has been giving me stress because the wind and weather just wouldn’t cooperate. tomorrow is my last day off for a long time so i’m diving no matter what. rain, or shine, or wind, or typhoon, i’m going diving! where? i’ll decide in the morning and if my instinct is right, we are going to get some delicious fish!
