Hardcore Surfing and Diving….

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good evening. woke up this morning to heavy rain and strong winds but didn’t stop us from going diving. hardcore diving….

when i called hayato this morning, i was hoping he was going to say “shine it”. but he came up to my house ready. stopped to get gas, sandwiches, ice, and drinks. then it was off to ewa beach….

it’s not good for diving after the kind of rain we’ve been getting. this is not dodo water. this is the ala wai canal. the water was so dirty today that we couldn’t dive the regular spots we go to. i think today was the dirtiest i’ve ever seen it. everywhere all the way down past the airport was dirty….

we found this little patch of clean water. jumped in for an hour and caught these fish. hayato even caught a good size tako too….

i was talking to my friend brandon the other day about eels. he told me that moray eels are super good tasting. if i caught one, he said he will cook it for me. so after 10 or so tries, hayato and i finally got this monster out of the hole. if you don’t know about moray eels, be careful because if this thing bites you, he will rip off your whole finger, or fingers. worst than a dog bite…. i’ll let you know how it tasted after i try it. anyway, for what a terrible day of weather we had here in hawaii, i enjoyed it underwater. i was feeling sick these past 5 days, including this morning. but after my first dive, it went away. my cough, runny nose, sore throat, and headache. all gone. oh how the ocean heals….
**by the way, we checked rockpiles on the way in and the waves were actually good. jun and keiko were out. then passed by bowls and seen kimura-san out surfing. all hardcore surfers. i’m on my way out for a dinner but before that, i’m going up into the mountains to try to get pork for a barbecue coming up…. hope it’s there….

**and oh shit!!! check out this photo matsuo just sent me. this is freezing cold shonan today…. oh my gosh… i’m going out tonight naked….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide