good evening. wow, i couldn’t believe how long i was in the water today. 3 rounds for a total of 6 hours of surfing. the waves were coming up all day long and getting bigger and bigger. summer is in full swing and if you were in the water today, you would have seen the thousands of surfers spread throughout the south shore. what an amazing day!
then went with friends to Imanas to eat the best shabu shabu on the island.
some people say it’s even better than japan. i think so too. just look at the prime meat!!!!
shabu shabu baby!
i was a very happy and satisfied surfer today. surf good waves, surf with friends, and eat good food. what more could you ask for?
then tonight at 9pm, i was checking the waves. i could hear it, i could smell it, and i could feel it. tomorrow will be solid 6-8′ at diamond head, 4-6′ at ala moana, and perfect conditions with these trade winds. my plan is to dawn patrol the best possible spot, then have a meeting right after for the next 3 days. i’m a busy guy, but just so long as i can surf, everything else will be fine! good night.
