i meet the coolest people every single day. this is Ura-san. i picked him up yesterday and we surfed super good waves in the morning at bowls. Ura-san just started surfing 8 months ago so i was expecting a beginner. when he caught his first wave, i thought he was going to go straight. but this beginner is different. as soon as he took off, he set the rail and rode a super long right. how did he get so good so fast? he’s being taught by professional surfer Naohisa Ogawa in japan for the past 8 months. i was really impressed by his level of surfing and i was super stoked to find out that Naohisa Ogawa was passing on his skills to this cool guy.
hey Ura-san, once a surfer, always a surfer. i had a great time with you yesterday! surf good waves, eat acai bowl and shave ice. keep on surfing and hope to see you again! mahalo
and to Nao-san, it was nice to talk to you the other day. keep on surfing and keep on charging pipe! you’re a great super surfer and teacher. keep spreading the surfing vibe to everyone! mahalo
the other day i was hanging out with my nephews. it’s so funny that all we talk about is diving. josh and seth just got back from western australia getting totally barreled. but the only thing on their mind was to get the boat fixed and go diving. these kids are growing up to be true surfers and divers. i’m so stoked to be their uncle. go boys!
last, i have to jump on an airplane today and go to a meeting. two trips ago, it was 2 days in japan, last trip, it was 1 day in japan, this trip? we shall find out. i’m starting to prioritize things in my life. experience is the key to success and with all the experience i’m experiencing lately, i think i’m on the road to success. yeah, i will miss some waves. but you know what? the waves will always be there for me. nothing changes in hawaii and when i get back, it will be the same wave, same wind, same people, and same barrels. that’s why i chose to go to this meeting and sacrifice a few barrels. but when i get back, stay back and see you in the barrel! haha.
