i pull up to ala moana park yesterday morning with butterflies in my stomach. i just knew i was going to surf overhead waves and get barreled. big rights is my favorite spot on the south shore once it gets over 4′. i park my car and get ready in the dark. first swell of the year? oh yes!!!
can you believe there were “no parking” signs all along the park? i bet you a hundred of surfers cars got towed yesterday because i came in at 8:50am and there were still so many cars there. 9am was the cut off time and i know the cops will be there in full force. anyway, had a great session at big rights. got a few barrels, seen Gen get the barrel of the morning, and had fun talking and catching up with my friends. i love being in the water!
then i pass by bowls and it’s going off! 50 hungry surfers fighting for every wave that came in. no thank you.
on the small days, you can see the lonely red buoy kind of far out in the channel. that red buoy wasn’t too lonely yesterday. i’d say 10-15′ faces at bowls.
and when the deep channel closes out, you know it’s big. it wasn’t a day for boats to go in and out.
i surf dawn patrol for 3 hours. then jump on the harley and head to the airport. board my flight, buckle my seat belt, and fall asleep like a baby. 9 hours later, i’m in tokyo. got up now at 4am because of jetlag, eating breakfast, getting a massage, then heading to the airport and boarding a flight to hokkaido! i’m going to learn something from a totally different world today and i’m looking forward to it. have a beautiful day!
