good morning. it’s 4 am and i can’t take it anymore. i went to pick up my surfboard yesterday so i have it in my car, i’m grabbing my trunks, my leash, and i’m going surfing!! even if the waves are knee high, i’m out there!!! 2 days ago when i was on the train passing by the beach, as soon as i saw the ocean, i wanted to jump in. why didn’t anybody tell me there’s waves??? come on guys, i’m a surfer…. hope to catch a wave today. wish me luck…..
it was good to see mahina maeda in the new surfer girls magazine. this girl got good really fast!!! watch out….
and to see kelia in a big vertical spread kind of freaked me out. i’m taking a couple of copies back to hawaii so if you want to see one, let me know…
hey carter, nice snap at kewalo’s. i can tell your matchi shaped board is working good for you. keep on ripping! see you out there tomorrow!!!
i went to the super market to buy a beer last night. gosh, there was so many that i was so confused.. then something caught my eye and i made my mind up…
HAISAI!!! i miss okinawa!!!
