Fresh Raw Pig Liver in Hawaii….

169

good evening. gosh, another long day here in hawaii. went to surf backdoor this morning. wasn’t the best but pretty good for this year. it felt good to be in the barrel again. i wish i could live in there….

this is what it looked like. not bad yeah? the crowd wasn’t too bad and almost every japanese staying on the north shore was out, including the photographers. it was raining and pretty dark all day out there…. yuck….

hayato always wanted to eat the raw liver from the wild pig. i thought he was joking but i guess not…. i love liver sashimi and eat it all the time in japan. we don’t have it in america and serving it at a restaurant is illegal. so after living here my whole life, today was the first time i ate raw liver in hawaii. so good. oh, check out this photo. looks like hayato holding up an alien baby or something. sick….

tokura-san getting a first taste of liver sashimi, hawaiian style. kubota, matchi, numajiri, and everybody else at the dove house tried it and you know what they said? “better than japan”…. i thought so too….

so it’s super bowl sunday in hawaii. biggest event of the year. went down to kaimana beach because my brother and friends were cooking out. i thought they were listening to the game on the radio but i was wrong….

they had 2 tv’s going on. barbecue going, volleyball nets up, horse shoes, and a soccer set up. now that’s how to enjoy superbowl sunday. and the game was nuts. the underdogs won. i always cheer for the underdogs. congratulations new york giants….

it could be storming on the north shore and the weather in town can be perfection. i thought it was another day. i love town…. have a great evening….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide