OMG, i paddle out to bowls this morning and the waves were perfect. only a few leftover locals out as everybody is too tired to surf anymore. solid 6 days of pumping surf so everybody is sunburnt or rode just too many waves. heavy arms, burnt faces, and happy smiles. this has to have been the longest strongest swell in the history of the south shore. i’m so happy i left hawaii last friday because i remember fighting with 30 other guys to get a decent wave on the first day of the swell. now, i’m the most energetic guy in the ocean and i’m far from surfed out. i just started! caught so many perfect waves yesterday and today. tomorrow same thing. enjoy this everlasting super south swell!
yes, it started about 10 days ago in tahiti. this is the same swell we’re surfing right now! no heavy wipeouts like this, but there are still a lot of surfers that are not supposed to be out on big days like this. this morning a beginner almost killed me. luckily i learned to keep my anger under control.
then i get up and check the north shore cam. OMG! i thought i was dreaming. pipeline and backdoor solid 6′ barreling in may? are you kidding me????? waves everywhere so everybody is super happy now.
i was just about to buy an iPhone 5 but my friend stopped me and said “the new iPhone 5s should be out in a few months, so wait!” i’m a very patient guy so waiting a few months is not a problem. when can i wait in line? haha.
the first phase of overselling hawaii has officially started. the owner of ward centers just unveiled the first of many phases at kakaako. 3 new high rise towers will start construction so 900 condo units are for sale. then the master plan is to have 22 more towers with 4,300 units going up in the future. same roads with 22 new condo high rise towers? are you joking? the traffic is already crazy around there and i’m not looking forward to driving an hour to get to kewalo’s. something is wrong here.
well, going to bed early again, getting up early and surfing all day tomorrow. more sun, more swell, and more waves. some people say i’m lucky? i just feel like all the years of surfing, traveling, and making friends around the world has finally put me a the perfect place i use to dream about. and now i’m living in a dream that took 25 years to build, i can’t be an happier than i am. thanks to you all!
