good morning from hawaii. gosh, i’m home!!! and i’m so stoked to be home. first, i wanted to say sorry to everybody i couldn’t see on my trip to japan. i was there for private reasons so i kept kind of low key. i hope you understand. like usual, i will be going back there as soon as typhoon season starts, which is soon. well, hopefully soon….
i got off the plane and felt like i was in paradise again. i really missed the blue sky and blue water. it’s rainy season in japan now so it’s been cloudy, rainy, and dark everyday. but i had a great time! especially surfing on my last day, which was yesterday….
check out the action…
this is a spot in shonan called namakon. i don’t think it’s secret because they held a JPSA event there before. when i first went to japan, this spot wasn’t there. it was just deep water. hiromichi soeda told me that the tractors came and dug up the beach to set it up for volleyball. then the sand went into the water and formed a pretty nice bank. another man-made surf spot creation….
nice!! this is pretty dam good for shonan….
pro surfer akeo waseda, akira shindou, chobo-san, hiromichi-san, kinsan, and a whole bunch of local surfers were out…
6 months ago, hiromichi-san got hurt surfing sunset. not until a few days ago, he just got back in the water. gosh, he looked so happy!! i know that feeling…. welcome back hiromichi-san…
i woke up at 3:30 am and drove 1 hour to check this river mouth i love. the waves were super fun. chest high, barreling, and only 6 surfers out. i think i scored!!! wait! i know i scored….
**anyway, i gotta go back to the airport and pick up shun. probably going to surf kewalos.. have a nice day!!!
