Rockpiles to Bowls

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wow, it was another perfect day here in hawaii! took the little girls surfing today and i was so happy to see them riding bigger and bigger waves. it’s all about getting comfortable in the ocean so when the freak set comes, they are prepared. today a huge freak set came so i told them to turn around, paddle, and hold on. haha. they both rode it all the way to the beach. kind of dangerous, but fun!
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it’s been a long time since i took photos. so being such a beautiful day, my 100-400mm lens was the call. this is from rockpiles looking over to magic island where the local motion surf into summer contest was on.
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the waves were still perfect. and it’s the 11th day of the swell. one kid was standing out, this is Noah Mizuno pulling an air.
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with the incoming tide and off shore winds, every wave was barreling.
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then i was shooting some friends surfing perfect rock pile lefts. Gabe with the good one!
smaller surf this week with another south swell next week. trade winds so offshore everyday with lots of rainbows. have a great memorial day tomorrow!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide