Wild Wild China Town….

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good evening. we’re in the middle of north shore big wave season and guess where the biggest and best waves were today? in town… haha… yeah, there is a little south swell coming in and nobody knows about it. surfed with hayato and kimura-san this morning at bowls. nobody was out when we got out. the waves were perfect and super fun. one other lucky japanese paddled out and surfed with us. after we had enough and was ready to go in, team japan pro bodyboarders came out and had ala moana bowls to themselves. rare? freaking unheard of….

went to kimura-san’s room after to take this photo of their million dollar view…. gosh, i wish my house had a view like this. i wouldn’t leave it…

kind of blurry but you can see that perfect left breaking towards the right side of the photo. that’s bowls, and nobody is on that wave. could have been you…..

when i was young, on the weekends, we use to rent a hotel room in waikiki, invite 100 friends, and have a “hotel party”. loud noise, loud music, and drunk teenagers. 9 out of 10 times, we use to get kicked out by the security guards. those were the days… while i was looking down into rooms today, i was thinking something. gosh, no dam privacy. imaging paying big bucks to stay at a famous beach front hotel in waikiki. then waking up one morning naked and looking out your balcony to see somebody like me taking your picture. cheese…..

there is a secret chinese dimsum restaurant in town that is the best in hawaii. went there with hayato, kimura-san, and atsuko-san. awesome lunch…. the restaurants name is called “Chinese Nevamind Restaurant”. and it’s on “Nevamind Street”. so Nevamind….
**after lunch, we met up with kinsan and team okinawa. took a little china town tour. besides watching one guy stick a heroin needle up his leg near the bus stop, and another guy take a hit of his ice pipe on the picnic bench, and big girls almost getting into a fist fight, everything else was normal. gosh, china town is nuts. i always tell my japanese friends to stay away from there. even i get a little scared going down there. mix it up with the wrong people and your done.

today’s fresh catch? maguro @ $1.50/lbs. not bad….

or if you want pork, you can put this whole pig in a shopping bag and take it home for dinner. here kinsan is checking out the grade of the meat. or is he acting like a pig? i don’t know. but whatever he was doing, we all couldn’t stop laughing…[:??$B”y(B???:][:??$B”y(B???:][:??$B”y(B???:]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide