good evening. what an awesome day! started with a 3 hour session at bowls this morning, then a 2.5 hour session at kewalo’s this afternoon. i surfed over 5 hours and now for sure you can’t see me in the dark. well, only if i smile… haha… anyway, hope you have a good evening. i sure will cause i’m going to sleep by 8 pm. good night…
we checked everywhere today. i know we surfed the best spots at the best time but if i were to choose the best #3 spot, it would have to be diamond head light house. it was super good!! fun, clean, uncrowded, and long walls…
kataoka-san was my surf buddy for the day. after we scored good bowls this morning for 3 hours, we were hungry. i asked him what he wanted to eat and he said meat. so we ate meat, meat, and meat!!! check out his lunch? can you believe he ate it all? i ordered the same thing and ate it all too. and i’m already hungry!!! if you want to know where this is, never mind. secret!! haha.. thanks kataoka-san for a wonderful surf, eat, surf day!!!
i really like to surf bowls because it’s an easy surf. the waves break in the same spot so you ride a wave, paddle back out to the same spot, and ride another. after surfing there for a while, it’s easy to get spoiled…
and last, my sister and kelia are still in france. they just sent me this video clip of one of the biggest photos i’ve ever seen. just the photo credit is big as kelia’s arm. i guess you can say that this is my biggest accomplishment in photography until now. and the cool thing is that i’m only getting started. dreaming big is what i do but i haven’t dreamt about this in my wildest dreams.. i’m so happy!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR TO CHECK OUT THE HUGE ROXY POSTER!!!
