OMG! the waves were awesome today! the swell picked arrived earlier than expected to that means it will stay around longer. in my entire life living here in hawaii, i don’t think i ever surfed as much as i did today. i surfed 4 rounds at about 8 hours in the water. first, i surfed bowls in the morning. the waves kept on getting bigger and bigger so i came in, threw my board in the truck, wrapped my wet shorts with a towel, and sped over to big rights. paddled out and got barreled!
then i was starving so i stopped by yamagen to eat my favorite katsu curry plate. so good! then i picked up Team Inaida-san and we challenged ourselves to the biggest waves rock piles had to offer. it was huge and i don’t even know how we all made it out to the lineup. after a few waves and a few obake “freak” sets, we all came in alive. great job team! then i sped back over to big rights to get some more barrels. the waves were perfect 5′ and barreling. i broke my leash this morning but stayed out anyway because it was too good to go in. it was an amazing day!
after 4 times of the long paddles out to the spots, and after spending 8 hours in the water, i felt like a high school kid surf bum. i haven’t surfed so much in a day in my life. i am so sunburned, my arms are like rubber, and i’m so tired. tomorrow the waves should be bigger and better. i’m planning to spend 8 hours in the ocean again, but maybe only 3 rounds. i couldn’t be any more satisfied right now as the happiest surfer in the world. good night and good life.