UNBELIEVABLE!!!! that was the word coming out of every local surfers mouth today, including mine! today was just plain UNBELIEVABLE!!!! i paddled out to big rights at 10am, i just knew the waves were going to get better and better so i planned a 2 hour session, then lunch, and another 2 hour session. the waves kept coming and coming! 6′ sets with huge barrels! big enough to stand up, smile, and make it all the way to the inside. barrel after barrel and smile after smile. that’s how my session went all day. instead of paddling in for lunch, i stayed out and skipped lunch. stayed out till past 2pm. 4.25 hours of pure barrel surfing. i’ve been surfing big rights for the past 28 years and today was by far the best day ever. my friend Ronnie Yamada who is one of the longest locals out there said the same thing. UNBELIEVABLE!!!! two huge sets i caught came from way out in the deep blue water, i turned around, paddled my hardest into the strong off shore winds, took off, and pulled right into the big barrel! i came out of both! UNBELIEVABLE!!!! good to see other of my friends like Nick Mita, Ronnie Yamada, Teppei Tajima, Kaylen, Kyle, and some of the other boys getting barreled too. i was super stoked to be a part of this surf session that will go down in the history of south shore surfing. UNBELIEVABLE!!!! as i was drinking my water in my car, i took this lineup shot of big rights. this was a medium size wave so think of double this and getting barreled. UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
tomorrow, same thing! get barreled! UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
more photos coming soon!
but first, i’m going to eat some peking duck and lobster. have a wonderful evening!
