omg, my body is tired, my skin is black, and i’m exhausted. but when there’s waves, i surf. so today will be no different then the past few days. see you in the water. but first, check out some photos i took from yesterday.
from the beach out to big rights is super far. but with the naked eye, i can tell who’s out just by their style. i’m pretty sure this is Greg Nakamura doing a nice off the top.
and this is Kyle Nakamoto pulling in. i’m 100% sure Kyle doesn’t know anybody was shooting him yesterday. great timing as i just pulled out my 400mm lens.
ala moana beach bunny.
a lot of my friends have been telling me that kewalo’s rights has been the best ever. they say it was just like backdoor. so when i looked down and seen 5 perfect waves in a row, i knew this swell was special. in fact, this swell is much better than the last big one. lucky us!
Keoni Jones @ Bowls. Smile!
Ronnie Ungas @ Bowls. Helmet!
and i spotted Hiro from my lens. the only japanese surfer getting sets out at bowls. good job Hiro!
