ok, after surfing perfect bowls this morning, i heard from all the boys that yesterday was better than any of the other days of the last big swell. the wave direction was perfect, and the winds were offshore all day long. so many spots were at its best, and even spots that didn’t break before broke. it was just one of those magical swells that pass by oahu every 20 years. i’m just lucky to have rode in it’s barrels! today was super fun too. i got a super nice barrel going left at bowls. mellow crowd, good waves, and off shore. so happy!
the park wasn’t only beautiful in the water, it was beautiful on the beach. where else in the world would you want to be? for me, hawaii!
so i get a text from Nick Mita last night saying “did you see your photo Kaz took?” i replied “no.” then a few minutes later, Nick sent me a photo of me getting barreled! then i get home and check my email, Kaz Sano sent me the sequence shot of one of the barrels i got. this is the take off as i set up for the long barrel ahead.
then i pull in, get barreled, disappear, then shoot out at the end. thank you Nick for the info, and thank you Kaz for taking the photos. i’m super stoked that i can relive the dream instead of dreaming about what i will surely forget. yesterday was “THE DAY.” and i’m glad i was there surfing with all my friends out at big rights! thanks boys!
then we eat lobster, peking duck, and i get the best massage in the world after. Katsura-san is part of Team Ina and she’s been working on my poor shoulders after hours and hours of paddling and paddling. magic hands, the best in the world. it hurts so good!
