good morning. 7 am and the waves looking small here in hawaii. waist high at laniakea and bowls. nice trade winds and blue skies. i’m going to start packing today because come july 24th, i’m on typhoon standby. as soon as i see a little typhoon egg that is ready to be born, i’m on the next flight to kansai, then probably head to shikoku. somebody asked me the other day, “how do you do it?” i told them “i’ve been doing it for the past 18 years and i’m use to it, it’s just that everybody around me isn’t use to it yet. i could live out of my suitcase for the rest of my life if i had to. all i need is 2 trunks, 2 tshirts, my camera, my surfboard, and my spear gun.” i’m pretty mobile so where ever the best waves are in japan, i will be there! how long more can i do this? forever!!! if you just knew the kind of waves i score in japan, you would understand. but until then, you will just think i’m crazy. but i’m ok with that.. haha… have a nice day!!!
i was out on the east side the other day and pulled up to this beach i use to bodysurf and bodyboard with my friends back in high school. it’s called “pounders” and kind of off the map. clean water, white sandy beaches, and good shorebreak waves. just don’t leave valuables in your car cause there is a 90% chance it will get stolen. everybody knows that and that’s why i love this beach. it’s pretty much empty!!!
after i was watching the kids bodysurfing, i thought of something. wouldn’t it be cool to have an article about bodysurfing? especially because one of the best spots in town “Point Panic” is designated only for bodysurfers? that would be cool! i’m looking into it so stay tuned….
i already sent an email to President Obama and asked if he wanted to be our featured body surfer. i’m still waiting for his reply….
and i have great news!! i was at the bookstore yesterday and seen something new on the magazine rack. 3 new surfing magazines!!! one was a new body boarding magazine called MOVEMENT, another was this womens surf magazine called WSSM, and another one called…..
SLIDE. this one is a longboarding magazine. seeing things like this makes me happy because if there is no media, there is no sport. surfing is booming and with more media, there will be more jobs.
one of the main reasons why i dedicate so much time and effort into GO-NAMINORI.COM is to give back the gift i received, which is SURFING!!! i grew up in the boom, it went down, and now it’s booming again. and to be a part of that feels pretty dam good! SURF YOUR DREAM[:?????$B!x(B???:]
**oh, one more reason why i dedicate so much time and effort into GO-NAMINORI.COM is to be able to throw a huge party in japan! it’s always been one of my dreams to get everybody together for a positive vibe. i want everybody to meet everybody and everybody to have a great time. things are progressing and the flyers should be out soon. kelia is excited and so are many other people. just want to thank everybody that’s planning to come to the party and are supporting it. we have great prizes so don’t miss out! AUGUST 14th is the day i can’t wait to see you all there!!!
