MOLOKAI: The Friendly Island

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our 3 bedroom house we rented was situated on 5 acres of land. super big, clean, and peaceful. no noise, no telephone reception, and nobody around for miles. something i really needed in my life. and after the sun set over the horizon, the stars filled up the sky. millions and millions of stars falling from the sky. it was so amazing!
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the is the kalaupapa coast. the photo looks foggy and that’s because we were in the clouds. such a magical place.
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the sunsets were amazing. from the house, from the beach, and from the road.
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i slept on the deck so i would awaken by weird noises. sounds like a dog, then sounds like a cat, then sounds like a bird. come to find out, it was deer. every morning they pass right outside our house so i’d get up and just watch them until the sun rises. then i’d try to make a noise just like them, and they would turn and look at me. they must have thought i was a weirdo. haha.
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then there’s the shells. omg, we got shells, opihi, and lots of great memories.
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then the bonus was surfing! i stopped by tony’s house to borrow some boards, we paddled out and had the spot to ourselves. it felt so good to be surfing with nobody complaining, yelling, or screaming at you for dropping in. we were just ordinary surfers having a great time surfing.
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every evening it was a corona at sunset time. a time to reflect on the peaceful day that just passed.
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all things must come to an end. as i boarded the airplane today, i was kind of sad. i felt like i went back 100 years in hawaiian time. the nature, the untouched land, the people, and most of all, the aloha. a life i could live for the rest of my life.
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then as we approach oahu, i look out the window and see the tall buildings of honolulu. it’s back to life, and back to reality.
i learn new things about myself on each and every trip. for this one, i learned that i’m living a much too fast life. my last 2 years new years resolutions were to work as hard as possible. i’ve been doing that, but now i realize that it’s maybe too fast. even too fast for me to keep up. i’m going to slow down a little. starting next month, i’m going to give myself a week off each month. at that time, i’ll travel, experience new things, enjoy my friends, and enjoy my life. the beautiful island of molokai has taught me to become a better person, spread more aloha, and do things from deep inside the heart. i will take that power and make my life better.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide